The signet ring back in fashion

It’s hardly a common situation for Prince Charles to find himself in fashion’s vanguard, even if recent seasons have seen men’s wear designers falling for his penchant for double-breasted suits. But there he was at Clarence House earlier this month, at the launch of his eco garden party, representing not only the crown but a new fashion trend (although chances are it was not a conscious decision). There, on his little finger, was a gold signet ring.

The traditional signifier of old wealth and breeding, worn on the pinky and engraved with the family crest for pressing into wax seals, the signet ring is coming into favour with those for whom heraldry and coats of arms are half-remembered notions from history lessons.

Stephen Webster, the prominent jewellery designer and creative director of luxury jewellers Garrard, says he has noticed “bankers and hedge fund guys, not the people you’d expect” taking to them.

“At one time there would have been a particular type that wore a signet on their pinky, but now if a guy has made a decision to wear one it’s because he’s made an effort over his looks.

The vogue for sharp tailoring and old-fashioned elegance – embodied by Colin Firth’s suave, signet-sporting academic in A Single Man, the Tom Ford-directed film released earlier this year – has made the toff’s status symbol chic. Zoe Benyon-Pedley, co-founder of boutique London jewellers Robinson Pelham, has noticed an upturn in requests for signet rings (prices from £500) from both their established constituency – the offspring of the upper classes, who had been forsaking signets since footballers and rappers took jewellery in a rather gaudier direction – and those with an eye for a smart accessory with heritage behind it.

“We’re seeing this whole love affair with the brogue, with beautifully cut, 1950s-style suits and tweed, and signet rings absolutely go along with that,” says Benyon-Pedley.

Perhaps the most stylish place to pick one up, therefore, is on Savile Row. Gieves & Hawkes, for instance, offer customers a bespoke signet ring service. “It’s part of a very English look, and it’s expensive – it shows that you’ve really invested in the idea of being smart,” says Frederick Willems, head of design.

Those wanting to add a smidgeon of foppish bling to their appearance have signets ranging from ovals and cushion shapes to shields or stone-set rings to choose from. A good jeweller will be able to produce a bespoke signet ring on request, the cost varying according to the complexity of the engraving.

At Rebus, the Hatton Garden signet specialist, the top seller is a ring with a basic oval face, known as the English Oxford Oval (£700). An 18ct yellow gold signet ring from Garrard starts at £800 and can range up to £1,350.

Some jewellers will match surnames to historic coats of arms, though the official authority on such things, the College of Arms in London, frowns on this.

Other options for those unable to trace their lineage back centuries include engraved initials or personal designs – Rebus’s director Emmett Smith has engraved motifs ranging from company logos to skulls or what traditionalists would see as the arriviste faux pas – pinching bits of old coats of arms to create a new one.

London designer Toby McLellan includes a plain, 18ct gold ring in his line of chunky, shield-shaped signets. He says these can be a good entry point for men reticent about wearing jewellery. “They can be subtle but still have that sense of history and masculinity to them,” he says.

McLellan also makes signet rings in which the face is encrusted with precious stones such as rubies, while Stephen Webster’s flamboyant eponymous line includes elaborately carved signets with inlays of large stones like lapis (£245) in place of an engraved face.

The heptagonal rings in Hannah Martin’s decadent, Russian gangster-inspired Vincent collection include one with a black onyx face set with a single diamond (£2,100) and a gold piece in which the face is scored with lines emanating from the centre (£1,500).

While they may not suit Prince Charles, Martin nevertheless sees her pieces as extending a rich tradition.
courtesy: www.ft.com